Although one direct low-cost service between the UAE and Tirana has now come to an end after four years, travellers can still plan an affordable escape to Albania’s lively capital.
The last Wizz Air service from Abu Dhabi landed at the end of last month, but flydubai’s regular five-hour flights from Dubai – operating on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, from Dh1,120 – are a convenient alternative for those keen to explore Tirana’s charm.
A captivating blend of Ottoman, Communist-era and contemporary influences, the Balkan gem rimmed by the Skanderbeg mountain range is an intriguing destination.
Its city centre is only half an hour from the airport by bus and compact enough to get around entirely by foot. Yes, it can be hot in August. But it’s about 8°C cooler than Abu Dhabi in summer, so walking around to see the sights is doable.
And it has more than enough intriguing attractions to satisfy curious travellers for 48 hours, especially those on a tight budget.
Skanderbeg Square: Heartbeat of the city
Most guide books will recommend starting a Tirana adventure at Skanderbeg Square, the sprawling central plaza named after Albania's national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg. The military commander died in 1468 and is celebrated for leading a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire.
This square bearing his name is surrounded by landmarks such as the National History Museum and the opera house. The equestrian statue of Skanderbeg himself is a focal point of the square, its backdrop of changing facades reflecting a city that has a complex past and vibrant present.
Et'hem Bey Mosque: A testament to endurance
Adjacent to Skanderbeg Square stands the exquisite Et'hem Bey Mosque, a testament to religious endurance.
Built in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, its intricate frescoes and delicate artistry are a rare sight in Islamic architecture, depicting natural landscapes and still life.
The mosque miraculously survived the totalitarian regime's atheistic policies, serving as a powerful symbol of Albania's resilient spirit and the revival of religious freedom. Entry is free and a look around takes no more than half an hour.
Bunk'Art 1: Unearthing a hidden past
It takes only a few minutes to stroll from the mosque to one of the city’s most fascinating tourist attractions.
Bunk'Art 1, a network of underground bunkers originally built for the political elite in case of a nuclear attack, has been transformed into a fascinating museum and contemporary art space.
Visitors can delve into Albania's clandestine communist history and explore its chilling corridors and rooms. Exhibits detail the paranoia and repression of the nation’s Hoxha regime, offering a powerful insight into a bygone era. Entry is 500 Lek (about Dh20) and a minimum of an hour is recommended to take it all in.
Climbing the pyramid: History with a view
After exploring down below, it takes 10 minutes to walk to an attraction offering a city skyline view from up above. Climbing the Pyramid of Tirana – another free activity – feels like scaling a concrete relic of history, its slanted sides weathered, but proud.
Originally built in 1988 as a museum to honour long-standing Communist dictator Enver Hoxha, the once-grand structure now boldly symbolises Albania’s shifting identity. Each step upwards reveals more of the city’s chaotic charm, framed by graffiti. At the top, the panorama opens, with the city sprawled below and the beautiful mountain range in the distance.
Air Albania stadium tour: A modern sporting landmark
The national football stadium proudly represents the city’s more modern architecture. For sporting enthusiasts, a guided tour of the Air Albania Stadium is well worth doing and is only 10 minutes from the pyramid by foot.
The sleek venue, opened in 2019, stands on the site of the former Qemal Stafa Stadium. Built as a compact English-style venue with spectators seated close to the pitch, it has a capacity of 22,000 and is sold out for every national team match.
The guided tour, costing 1,500 Lek (Dh65), takes about two hours and includes pitchside access, the dressing rooms and VIP areas. An enthusiastic English-speaking guide offers a deep insight into the nation's passion for the sport.
Grand Park and lake walk: A green oasis
The Grand Park of Tirana and its artificial lake is only a five-minute walk, via Mother Teresa Square, from the stadium. This expansive serene space is a beloved retreat for locals, offering walking and jogging paths, cafes and peaceful spots to unwind and escape the urban bustle.
Walking the 5.3km loop around the lake takes about 45 minutes. Formed by a dam in the mid-20th century, the lake offers picturesque views and buzzes with the sound of birds.
Why now is the time
From crumbling Cold War bunkers to lakefront strolls and skyline views from graffiti-tagged rooftops, Tirana packs a punch well above its weight. An evening spent in Blloku, the city's chic and vibrant cafe and restaurant zone, is the perfect way to round off a day and reflect on what has been missed out.
Going to the top of Dajti mountain by cable car; visiting Pazari i Ri market; and wandering through Tirana Castle, a Medieval fortress that's now a pedestrian street with an array of restaurants and artisan shops, are just some of the other things that could be crammed in.
Tirana is an unexpected gem that’s easy to explore. With Wizz Air’s direct route from Abu Dhabi ending soon, this month might be the last easy chance (for now) to enjoy Albania’s fast-changing capital.
